The History of Makeup and Hair in Theatre and Film
Theatres started off being only available for social connection/gatherings between the rich as it was really expensive. The first ever theatre productions of Greek and Roman theatre didn't use makeup originally. Because of poor lighting they could get away with masks but in “1600’s London theatre’s had
use of candles.” (A Brief History of Stage Lighting. 2014. Lighting equipment on theatres
[ONLINE] Available at:
http://www3.northern.edu/wild/LiteDes/ldhist.htm.[Accessed 28 February 2014]) Theatrical makeup started off by the Greek actor Thespis, in an effort to stand out. He painted his face with white lead and sulphide to create white and red face paint. “They also used lamb’s wool to create beards”. (Theatrical makeup - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. [ONLINE]Available at:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Theatrical_makeup.[Accessed 28 February 2014]) Also “performers in Elizabethan England used chalk and soot on their faces to depict characters and show expression.” They would have used white powder or chalk, burnt cork and paper, and pigment powders. Once Gas lighting and electric lighting were introduced to theatres mid 1800’s, a need emerged for new makeup materials and grease paint was invented.” More items, such as lipsticks, liquid liners, waxes, and makeup sticks were introduced as the 1900s approached.” (History of Theatre Makeup.2014. [ONLINE] Available at:
http://makeup.lovetoknow.com/History_of_Theatre_Makeup.[Accessed 28 February 2014]) Because technology was vastly improving the quality of theatre productions the actors could have been seen better, meant that the makeup had to be at a higher quality. The first grease paint was rather thick and could never be applied really thinly. So a new makeup artist of that time period, Max Factor tried to invent a new product which would be used in the new lighting. “Factor began experimenting with compounds to develop a suitable make-up for the new film medium”. By 1914 he had perfected his first cosmetic product a thinner grease paint. (Max Factor Bio-Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. 2014. [ONLINE] Available at:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Max_Factor. [Accessed 28 February 2014]) “In 1918 Max Factor completed development of his"Colour Harmony" range of face powder which, due to its wide range of shades, allowed him to customize and provide more consistent make-up for each individual actor or actress”. He created many appearances for these actresses,such as Clara Bow's heart-shaped/
pierrot lips. In 1920’s the term "make-up" was considered vulgar, to be used only by people in the theatre and not something to be used in polite society.
Then there was also a technology development called the television. The first ever demonstration in England was in 1923. The system was successful and developed enough to become commercialised and the BBC became the world’s first regular TV broadcasts. Because of the first ever television programming the makeup was based on shadow and lighting which was used in theatres because of the submitting being in monochrome. But because of the systems used to submit the technology to your television, “green lipstick and rouge was replaced the customary red in make-up designed for actresses in television board casting”. The camera would not record the red human complexion leaving the transmitted image looking unnatural. However when green was substitution made the lips and cheeks of the performer look in accurate relation of tones with their facial features projected. (Television history. 2014.
Television.[ONLINE] Available at:
http://www.eyesofageneration.com/Library_1938_Makeup.php.[Accessed 28 February 2014].) Early film makers used a monochromatic film stock which had limited colour range, it reacted to the red pigment and darkening white skin. To counter the effect Caucasian actors wore heavy pink greasepaint and dark red lipstick. Which if applied too lightly would appear white on screen. These cosmetics smeared as actors sweated under the light swhich actors applied their own makeup. Then this would make “their image rarely uniform from scene to scene”. (History - Makeup - actor, film, movie, cinema,scene. 2014. [ONLINE] Available at:
http://www.filmreference.com/encyclopedia/Independent-Film-Road-Movies/Makeup-HISTORY.html.[Accessed 28 February 2014].) In the early 1920’s panchromatic film became toreplace orthochromatic film, causing fewer flaws. Max factor completed work ona perfect makeup for film camera use which had variety of hues. In 1937 theyear before he died, he dealt with new techni-colour problems by adapting theatrical pancake makeup into water-soluble powder was excellent for films and eventually the use of television’s needs.
The difference between television and theatre is that still today more money is put in theatre productions as that has always had a wealthy background. The makeup of Theatrical culture is shown more strongly and outrageous so that audience can see the characteristics from far away and in strong lighting. This used to be the same with the use of black and white television with the use of monochrome the features needed to be shown used to be aggregated. Once the colour television was introduced on BBC 2 on July 1, 1967. The launch of the BBC 2 "full" colour service took place on December 2, 1967. The technique in makeup had to change and the use of products expanded with development. Though over the years of higher developed in technology with the use of HD. The technology lets it be most realistic to now and same as eye contact so the makeup has to be perfect detail.
“The first special effect artist was Jack Pierce. He created the scary vampire look made famous by actor Bela Lugosi.”(Special effects makeup Artistry. Online. eHow [Online] Available at
www.ehow.com/facts_5032416_special-effects-makeup-artistry.html[Accessed 07 March 2014]) He made the makeup for the first ever Frankenstein. He also endured four hours of make-up under Pierce's hand each day, during which time his head was built up with cotton, collodion and spirit gum, and green greasepaint (designed to look pale on black and white film) was applied to his face and hands in 1931. This showed a new use of the products they had to create better effects. A new product of latex was invented and “
The Wizard ofOz was one of the first films to make extensive use of foam latex prosthetics in the 1939”[Foam Latex-Wikipedia.2014.[Online]Available at
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foam_Latex[Accessed 07 March 2014]) Since then it has been a staple of film,television, and stage productions, as well as finding use in a number of other fields. In 1973 David Smith pioneered the method of applying prosthetics made from foam latex in small pieces as opposed to the standard of applying a latex mask as one solid piece.” Making the makeup appear more natural, Smith's makeup techniques proved to be superior. Today, the standard methods of applying prosthetics are those that Smith invented”(History of Special Effects Makeup.2014. [Online] Available at
http://prezi.com/bzd3modysveg/history-of-special-effects-makeup/ [Accessed 07 March 2014]. Through the 1950s and 60s numerous new special effects were developed which would dramatically increase the level of realism achievable in science fiction films. The use of Latex and silicone has helped to develop the use of special effects feature in films.
The Ancient Egyptians wore wigs to shield their shaved, hairless heads from the sun. They also wore the wigs on top of their hair using beeswax and resin to keep the wigs in place. Other ancient cultures, Greeks and Romans also used wigs as an everyday fashion.”In Korea, Gache were popular among women until it was banned in the late 18th century, while wigs were rarely used in China and Japan except in the traditional theatre.”(Wig. Wikipedia.2014 [Online] Available at:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/wig. [Accessed 07 March 2014]) After The Fall of the Roman Empire they fell in disuse for a thousand years but in the 16th century they were used again in the means of hair loss or improving ones appearance. They also used practical purpose; the unhygienic time meant hair attracted head lice. A problem that could be reduced if shaving the hair and using a wig instead of artificial hair to not attract head lice. In the 17th century wigs came very fashionable to the rich as that’s who could only afford such luxury. With wigs virtually obligatory garb for men with social rank,wig makers gained considerable prestige.
A wig maker’s job was classed as a skilled one in that era the wigs were elaborate, covering back and shoulders;made them extremely heavy and often uncomfortable to wear and were expensive to produce. The wigs were often made from horses and goats and were often used as a cheaper alternative. But the best ones were made from human hair. In the 18th century, men's wigs were powdered in order to give them their distinctive white or off-white colour. Women in the 18th century did not wear wigs, but had use of a hair piece which got coloured their hair grey or light blue not as bright as the men.“During the 18th century, men's wigs became smaller and more formal with several professions adopting them as part of their official costumes. This tradition survives in a few legal systems.” (Wig. Wikipedia.2014 [Online]Available at:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/wig.[Accessed 07 March 2014]) Wigs became a symbol of social status for men in the 19th century. Women’s wigs developed in a different way of which they had become unfashionable and only old woman wore them if they had lost their hair.
In the 1960s a new type of synthetic wig was made using a modacrylic fibre which made them more affordable. Also hairpieces became a must have they became selling in department stores not just specialist shops. Some wigs used in theatrical,and custom wigs have a fine, flesh coloured net at the front and allows the hair to look as if it is coming directly from the underneath the skin. These are usually referred to as "lace front wigs". Lace front wigs were first invented between the 1600’s when the French brought over their lace for salvation from the fight between the Protestants and the Catholics. The firstl ace was bought in the late 1500’s by Spanish refugees who worked for lace industry’s and then the late 1600’s the French felt refugee from the French revolution. “Today wigs and hairpieces are no longer used as a status symbol. They are worn by many on a daily or occasional basis as a matter of convenience”-(History On Lace Wig. 2014. Invisi Lace Front Wigs [Online] Available at:
http://www.invisilavefrontwigs.com/blog/educational/lace-front-wigs/history-lace-wigs. [Accessed 09 March 2014]
The formal characteristics of stage hair is that no matter whether it is the use of a wig or hair piece it should not be recognizable to the audience, it could be made to measure the exact actor for each character and is set into position of which it will always stay for the performance. And it should reflect the characteristics chosen for the stage makeup, the stage makeup is an outrageous exaggerated look to the up close eye but is in proportion to the audience under lighting and seated in a theatre arena. The colours of make-up are specially chosen for which lightening will be used for that specific sequence. The formal characteristics for film wigs are usually a lace front wig so that it is more of a natural state where to the high quality camera use cannot pick up a different hairline. These wigs are usually set to style as well but sometimes are moulded different ways though out different scenes. The characteristics of the make-up are completely different to theatre where the makeup should look more natural looking and has to be 100 percent perfect for the quality cameras. Theatre and Film have a characteristic of the wigs and hair pieces having to stay in place.
The major developments in theatre are the technology in lighting and development of cosmetics has widened the use of techniques that can be used to heighten the colours, definition and effects that the audience experience. The major development in technology has affected film as well in which there is a higher standard made for which the end product of a film should comply with. This makes the development of new products which look more natural and not as thick be used to create a better finish. The development of hair has also created a unique overlook of a wig/hairpiece that cannot be recognized as not real to the audience using lace front wigs. The development in prosthetic products has made the characters become more believable and more dramatic.
Past practices of using the products and techniques which had been used for centuries on new technology made an overlook of not good enough quality. In which the development of products of hair and makeup had to develop to a standard which technology has evolved to. The use of lace front wigs inquired the involvement of wigs being used more though out film and TV. The past products of makeup which were too thick for camera lighting and not durable made it a task to find products which would be waterproof and perfect for lighting. The development of lighting showed that normal techniques and application though out theatre also had to be changed because the overall final product was not to specification of each character making the use of a new product mandatory.
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